The shower drain should have been vented, so chances are you're drain venting is OK. The exposed piping can be covered with a bag of quickcrete, but leave an area around the tub drain connections exposed, maybe 12"x12" around the trap fitting. After the tub is in place, you come in through an access opening in the wall at the end of the tub and connect the drain piping to the tub. Obviously, you can't do this if the tub is placed against an outside wall, so you might have to switch the tub orientation to get the drain where you can get access to it.
This isn't outside the abilities of a DIYer. Just study, think, and plan and you should be able to do the job. I don't think i would want your contractor doing any plumbing work for me if he thinks the tub drain goes through the wall. The pipe that connects to the back of the tub overflow makes a 90deg turn and runs straight down. The tub drain tee's into that line and it continues straight down to the P-trap all of which is under the tub, but what do i know, i am only a plumber.
Wrought Iron Tub in Basement clogged. Transform this bathtub into a bathtub with shower. Mater Bath: Tub or Not? I've been researching this for my own basement and thought it'd be good to respond on the thread. There are tubs that are designed to connect above grade if you can't break your slab, for example. They have the plumbing and bottom of the tub raised a few inches, so you sacrifice water depth or stepover height for ease of installation.
Kohler is the brand I came across first that listed this feature on their website. This would allow connection to an in-wall stub-out or existing shower drain stub nearby assuming there was an appropriate trap in the slab already. Indem Sie weiterhin auf der Website surfen bzw. Mehr erfahren. Small-Space Living. Kitchen and Dining Seating. Living Room and Entryway Seating.
Sign In. Join as a Pro. Houzz TV. Houzz Research. Looking for the perfect gift? Send a Houzz Gift Card! I'm a novice at remodeling, so I'd appreciate any advice. Email Save Comment 4. Run a horizontal pipe to the existing pipe and assemble the parts needed for tying into it. All fittings should be Ys or drain elbows so wastewater can flow easily. If the existing pipe is cast-iron, take care to support it securely before cutting.
In the setup shown, a 4x3 Y connects to the house drain using no-hub fittings which should be used to connect to either cast iron or ABS.
Once you are sure the fittings are correct and the horizontal pipe slopes correctly, make alignment marks. Disassemble the parts, apply primer and glue, and reassemble the pieces in order, starting at the existing drain. Slip lengths of 2-inch pipe down through the holes drilled in the floor plate for the tub and sink vents. Have a helper hold the pipes plumb as you mark the plate below for notching. Cut notches about an inch wider than the pipe to accommodate a fitting.
To run a vent pipe through the ceiling, first drill a test hole to make sure you won't bump into any joists in the attic. You might need to move the hole over a few inches. The top plate can be doubled, meaning you have to drill through 3 inches.
You might need to drill with a hole saw first from below shown , then from above. Cut and dry-fit the horizontal drainpipe and the fittings for connecting the tub and the sink drains. A 3-inch horizontal pipe is shown, but your inspector might permit a 2-inch pipe. Insert a street elbow into the Y and hold the other pieces in place to mark for cutting. Install a reducing tee and a degree elbow or street elbow if you need to save room for both joints. If the pipe will be accessible, install a cleanout on the fitting for the tub; otherwise install a drain elbow instead of a tee.
A shower has no waste-and-overflow assembly, so the rough plumbing consists of a cemented trap that rises to the correct height for the shower base. To plumb the drain for the tub, dry-fit a 2-inch trap onto a length of 2-inch pipe that is longer than it needs to be. Study the directions for the tub to determine precisely where the trap should be located. Hold the trap-and-pipe assembly in place and mark it for a cut. Dry-fit and check that the horizontal pipe slopes correctly. Once all the parts are accurately assembled, draw alignment marks and prime and glue the pieces together.
Your plumbing codes might require the horizontal revent lines be as high as 54 inches above the finished floor, or at least 6 inches above the fixture flood level the point where water will start to spill out.
Use a carpenter's level to mark the studs for drilling holes. Drill holes, cut pipes, and connect them in a dry run using drain fittings. If a medicine cabinet, window, or other obstruction prevents you from running a vent straight up, you'll have to turn a corner for a short distance, then turn again to head upward. Horizontal runs should be at least 6 inches above the fixture flood level the rim of a sink, for example.
Install a sanitary tee facing into the room for the sink trap. The ideal height is usually 18 inches above the finished floor, but check your sink instructions to be sure. Install a piece of 1x6 blocking and anchor the pipe with a strap. In the attic, tap into a conveniently located vent pipe.
Cut the pipe and connect a reducer tee fitting. Run the new vent line over to the tee fitting. The pipes should slope gently away from the existing vent pipe so water can travel downward. Your inspector might want you to include a tee fitting to be used for testing: Once the drain system is assembled and cemented, plug the drainpipe at the lower end. Pour water into it until all the drain and vent pipes are filled with water.
Ideal for ceramic and stone tile, the backer-board material is covered on both sides with special fleece webbing to anchor the thinset mortar.
Being so lightweight, it was easy to position on the wall and zap in place with a powered screwdriver—with no-pre-drilling. And, rather than kick up a dust-storm by using a special concrete blade on a circ saw, the Schluter-KERDI backer-boards can easily be cut in place with a sharp utility knife.
Following the grid line, Hal nailed the ledger in place to serve two purposes. First, it provided support from below for the wall tile. He began installation above his level ledger, mortaring row after row of tile and using tile spacers between each joint. In some cases, vertical tile installations can slide when installed, misaligning the layout.
However, the ledger supported the weight of the tile while the mortar dried, preventing any movement. The second purpose of the ledger was to serve as a placeholder for a row of mosaic accent tiles that would serve as a kind of decorative chair rail throughout the bathroom.
The ledger had been cut the same size as the accent tiles, so upon removal it left a perfectly sized strip to install the chair rail. Bathroom Flooring. To make the bathroom floor as comfortable as possible, Hal incorporated an electric radiant heat system. This easy-to-install system utilizes a wire-embedded mat that is installed beneath the finished flooring. Featuring the same patented tongue-and-groove UniClic System popularized by laminate floor manufacturers, the edges of the interlocking tiles join at to degree angles and then fold downward to close the joint.
These unique features completely eliminate the mess and labor associated with grout and thinset mortar, so a new porcelain floor can be completed in as little as a single afternoon. Wall Paint. Bathroom paints are subject to moisture daily and this is no area to compromise on product selection. Moisture Ventilation and Insulation.
All baths should contain adequate ventilation, and this is especially critical for a basement bath that is below ground level. The other issue was preventing moisture from penetrating through the bath area into the surrounding non-vented living areas. While the stud cavities were exposed, Hal used Versi-Foam Spray Insulation by RHH Foam Systems to encapsulate the bathroom walls and prevent moisture migration, heat transfer and aid soundproofing.
Mission Accomplished. A custom bath renovation can vary wildly in design, and every project seems to have its special set of challenges. One of the key solutions to this project was the use of elevated drain platforms in lieu of tearing apart the concrete slab. However, with careful use of space and some neat new products that simplified installation, Hal managed to create a contemporary bathroom that had lots to offer in such a little space. Facebook Twitter Youtube Pinterest.
More from EHT:. By Matt Weber , Photos By Hal Jones Creative thinking combined with innovate building products give rise to a beautiful basement bathroom. Fixture Fix-Up The plumbing fixtures provide the function and focal points of a bathroom, and Hal chose Kohler fixtures to outfit the project.
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