Remove the cover under the steering wheel - three screws one with a D cover. Remember where the screws go. There's a latch on the upper left side adjacent to the door that you need to pull out of position for the whole piece to slide out. You'll need to unplug the door chime two connectors prior to removing this piece from the car.
Remove the knee guard behind the cover you just removed. It's held in by three bolts and is covered with an annoyingly sticky substance. At this point, you have wide-open access as much as you're going to get anyway to everything. Figure out where you want to mount the control unit. It was things of this nature that slowed me down the most.
Without telling you which side I specifically mounted the alarm on, it will become somewhat obvious once you see the lengths of wire supplied with the alarm or maybe not. I ended up using additional wire 25' or so, 18awg , so plan that into your shopping list. For routing wires from one side of the car to another, I purchased 10' of plastic spiral cable wrap Cat. I ended up using two sections for the traverse from one side to the other. This stuff can be a pain to use if you decide to add a wire after the fact kind of like a Chinese finger trap.
Plan your wire locations accordingly. Everything was routed between the HVAC box and the firewall and tie-wrapped to existing harnesses.
I'll give some pointers though that might be helpful. Location of the valet switch is not that critical. I mounted the LED in the center console using the center blank among the existing five I don't have heated seats. I filed down the "Clifford" LED washer to fit the width of the blank really minor detail.
I used the existing wire grommet for routing the alarm and battery remember pin 7 from the alarm plug? It's located under the empty battery shelf and is a real pain to route wires through. The hood sensor wire already goes through this grommet. The grommet has blanks in it to handle many more wires. While you don't have to do this, I used the two diodes supplied with the alarm for hooking up the left and right side parking lights.
Instructions are supplied. In retrospect, it's probably totally unnecessary and not doing it will allow the alarm to warn you when you leave your headlights on redundant, since the car already does this without additional minor wiring. You'll be using a positive door trigger the dome light sensor.
This will make sense when you read the directions. The last two can be used for other accessories I haven't figured out what else I could possibly need. I wired up the negative door lock sensors, hood sensor, and trunk sensor to one common trigger wire on the alarm. I can't see how the door lock sensors will ever get activated if the car's double-locked, but I've got the added protection.
Make sure that the shock sensor clears everything when you install it. About Us. Please wait.. E30 Door switches are all on the same circuit. Connecting to this wire will set the alarm off when any of the doors are opened. Dome light relay is right next to the lock control unit.
Must use relay to convert it to a ground signal. Use a Bosch 4 prong relay. If you have a flashlight in the glovebox pull that out at well. Now you need to push the little clips in on either side of the flashlight socket and push back towards the front of the car to release it from the glovebox. Now just pull the glovebox forward towards the back of the car. It will just slide right out. Be careful of the wires that went to the light and the flashlight as they are clipped to the back of the glovebox and will need to be released before you completely remove the glovebox.
To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead. Once you have the glovebox removed, I would recommend also removing the piece that forms the top of the footwell.
This is a very tight fit so you have to really coax it out. At the point closes to the front of the car and to the outside of the car, there is a plastic clip that is part of the kick panel. You will need to slide the cardboard piece towards the back of the car to release this. Be careful not to damage the smal plastic pieces of the speaker grille as you pull this part out. At the center of the car the cardboard piece slides under the center console, simply pull this down out of there to release some pressure on the part.
Now the only remaining connection is two metal prongs at the back of the footwell at the middle. Pull the cardboard piece towards the back of the car to release this. I almost forgot to mention the footwell light if you have it. To remove that simply press on the front of it and then pull down or use a flathead screwdriver. Disconnect the wiring harness as well or just slide the light through the hole and leave it hanging.
JPG Now for the fun part: Here is an alarm unit. There are different types. Some have glass break sensors, some do not. Some the antenna plugs in but for this one it is integrated. If you open the unit up you can change the dipswitches to control the sensitivity. I set both mine to on for the most sensitive.
The green plug goes into the alarm. The black plug goes into the car and the other wire goes to the center console for the led. The small black single wire plug connects also under the dash presumably for power. There is also a white plug that I am not sure what it is used for.
It doesn't connect in my car. It may be a connector for power for a different model car. Behind the glovebox looks like this.
Einbauzeit ca. Elektrokenntnisse sind Vorraussetzung. Table of contents Installation time approx. Section Installation time for tilt sensor optional approx. Anglicky e36 is i electrical troubleshooting manual. Anglicky e36 electrical troubleshooting.
Anglicky e36 i is i is electrical troubleshooting manual.
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